Rejkavik is a true enigma. The landscape is mysterious, harsh and at the same time enchanting. How people have managed to survive here over the years I struggle to comprehend- but I do know that it’s a place that lives up to its expectations.
It’s every bit as ‘otherworldly’ as you can imagine.
We had 5 nights to explore. Starting in Rejkavik.
For architecture:
We fought the sporadic rain and stumbled into Harpa Concert Hall to escape the elements. I’m really glad that we did. This building features a healthy amount of references to the Icelandic landscape. The glass curtain walls and mirrored ceiling reflect the geometry of the crystalline basalt columns – a fancy rock formation native to Iceland. The use of black and grey are reminiscent of the harsh volcanic rock that covers the ground – and combined, they reflect the natural landscape of Iceland.
The use of angles and lines (stairs and floor levels) create perspective illusions and meeting points and the feeling of space in the interior is truly magical. If you need your faith in modern architecture restored- please worship here.
The exterior glass curtain wall is dark grey/black with hints of purple and blue, but it’s not until night sets in do you realise that the whole thing lights up- like the northern lights. Perfect.
Contrast this with Hallgrimskirkja which is the landmark piece of architecture in town and the tallest and most attention demanding building in Rejkavik. Brutal. It’s a formidable sight and like Harpa it takes inspiration from nature and those basalt formations that they adore there.
The grey concrete is again reminiscent of the earth and the sky. In saying that we had beautiful blue skies most days we visited.
For nature:
Leaving rejkavik we travelled by hire car to Vik. On the way you see waterfalls that are unbelievably magical – think rainbows where you can actually find and stand right in the actual ‘end of the rainbow’ and waterfalls that you can stand behind as the hammering water pours in powerful streams in front of you.
We saw the ‘actual’ northern lights from the hillside in Vik. Swirling above us it was a surreal, spiritual and dare I say it (a little) frightening experience. It’s a feeling that sticks to your soul as the ghostly lights swirl above you. I suspect this will be one of those forever ingrained moments. And I hope I’m right.
I wasn’t particularly impressed by Diamond Beach. To be honest I was a bit ‘glaciered out’ – if that’s a thing. Gosh that sounds so pretentious. But yeh the actual glaciers are more impressive than the beach. To see the glaciers head east from Vik. It’s a couple hours drive but they are pretty spectacular.
And also hot tip is that the drive to Vik is far more impressive than the ‘golden circle’ drive…although who doesn’t feel thrilled seeing a geiser let off steam. (You’ll see this if you drive the golden circle). I wish I could publicly blow up every now and again – I’d be healthier for it. On the drive to Vik you see the waterfalls, the beautiful Icelandic horses (pictured above), valleys and generally picturesque views. It’s really a struggle to put your camera down the whole way.
Back to Rejkavik- you must eat at ROK and drink beer and see live music at Hurra. I didn’t get to try ‘Icelandic Street Food’. So that’s for next time – as is the North coast which must be phenomenal given the experience we had in the South.
Oh and in case you were wondering definitely go to the Blue Lagoon. I lost at least 3 wrinkles that day. Sulphuric clay and freezing winds literally froze my face like a decent amount of Botox would. A sunny day would be preferable.
Iceland really delivers in terms of otherworldly scenes. While there are a ton of tourists there is equally tons of space and you do get moments where you believe that you are the only inhabitants in this vast and sparse landscape.
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