When you’re living in New York and fantasizing about open spaces and fresh air on the regular – it’s a definite sign you need to get upstate.
I had these day dreams in May, just as I was defrosting from winter and I knew it was time to take a hike. Literally get myself on the road and out of the city.
After some research and some recommendations I decided we should explore the quaint town of Phoenicia. Known for its popular diner I knew at least if all else failed there’d be a good spot to eat. I’d set my expectations way too low – there was a lot to do in and around the area.

We stayed at The Graham & Co, a renovated motel in the town. It wasn’t anything fancy but it had a certain charm to it – particularly the delightful fresh berries and pastries for brekky in a tiny little barn style area. I’m sure you can find better value accommodation though, so do some research. If you have a car, upstate is your oyster, your delicious oyster.
It was late when we got in, so we ate at the restaurant across from our accommodation which for the life of me I cannot find the name of – it was great food (local sourced ingredients) and a chatty owner.
Up early the next morning we went to check out the Esopus Creek that runs through Phoenicia. It was beautiful so we strolled along it, people fly fishing and imagined the kids (and big kids aka me) tubing down in the summer months.
There were some good hikes nearby – enough to appease both the ‘not into uphill’ and the ‘let’s work up a sweat’ types. We walked to Giant’s Ledge for a great view of the forest but could definitely have ventured further if our stomachs weren’t ruling our decisions (not a very long walk).
We ate lunch at the Phoenicia Diner which has been in the same location since the 70s albeit different owners. Can’t go wrong with a Reuben is my motto. Had the old time diner charm and the young crowd menu.
Following this we hiked up to Kaaterskill Falls – it was getting hot in the spring sunshine – and we, as the type of people who can’t resist swimming if any opportunity presents – could not resist. The trail was pretty quiet so we took the chance to dunk ourselves in the freezing cold stream. It was beautiful and one of those moments you realise living in a big city like NYC is bearable for a nature lover if you can dip Upstate every once in a while.
That night we ate at the Peekamoose Tavern. I can’t recommend this spot more! We sat in the bar section, which was decorated like a snug winter snow lodge. Timber lined and cosy. The food was excellent and we finished off with homemade mint choc-chip ice cream which was WOW (helped that it’s my favourite flavour).
The following day we ventured up to Woodstock and I highly recommend it if you’re into vintage finds. There were some beautiful little boutiques that I spent a solid morning looking through. We lunched at Tinker Taco Lab by the small creek that runs through the town and it was delish!
If you can, do yourself a favour and head Upstate. Your expectations should be high because it will live up to them. It will revitalise your mind and soul.